原文章由 should 於 2011-6-19 21:47 發表 ![RV150 180 EURO的凸輪軸換高凸ORZ......72]()
原廠加工的高凸最好用...也比較穩定
另外請問老大您暴訓後的汽缸磨得漂亮嗎?
還是有傷到呢
磨得很漂亮(如照片,和鏡面一般),完全沒傷到
缸壁反射面漂亮到我的SONY TX9一直對不太到焦,才有點糊糊的
活塞組也完好如初
原文章由 k19887728 於 2011-6-20 21:21 發表 ![RV150 180 EURO的凸輪軸換高凸ORZ......8842]()
是呀～～ 我也想知道，畢竟身邊有改缸的朋友都是溫馴，不知道是不是改缸車的缸會比較脆弱。
如果改缸車都可以爆訊，而且效果也不錯的話。。。那原廠車應該也適用才對＠＠＂
原廠車OK的
況且現在台灣大廠牌的改裝缸應該都有一定的水準
該有的強度應該都有
不過我連二台RV都沒什麼訓車
外加G4的58半也沒訓
只有頭二三百有換個機油,還有清那粗糙到不行的機油濾網
其他時間有空就有路有空間就不時的拉尾速 (不過我都是順順加上去的)
照片這台則是從換好缸開始就是油門一拜在跑的
騎乘方式可見文中有寫道
至於為何從龜毛訓車到開始會想走暴訓
是因為看到這篇文章,我覺得寫的蠻有道理的
因為內容太多,只截幾句下來
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
裡面一開始有寫道 (因為我很懶,所以的大概翻一下幾句文中的重點,翻不好別鞭我><)
The biggest factor is that engine manufacturers now use a much finer honing pattern in the cylinders than they once did. This in turn changes the break-in requirements, because as you're about to learn, the window of opportunity for achieving an exceptional ring seal is much smaller with
newer engines than it was with the older "rough honed" engines.
有說到現在引擎製造商所用的研磨紋路的技術比早期的更加先進,因為汽缸壁上的研磨紋路比早期更加的細緻
加上現在活塞環的密封性更加的優異,而改變了現在訓車的習慣
In addition, there is a lot less heat build up in the cylinders from ring friction
due to the finer honing pattern used in modern engines.
還有這裡說到因為引擎研磨紋路的細緻,汽缸和活塞環的磨擦所產生熱量將會大幅減少(因為散熱更優異)
The other factors that have changed are the vastly improved metal casting and machining
technologies which are now used. This means that the "wearing in" of the new parts
involves significantly less friction and actual wear than it did in the distant past.
這裡是寫道改變訓車的其他因素在於金屬的鑄造和加工技術大幅度的改進,始使機件的耗損相較過去那樣
已顯得非常的低
What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??
The Short Answer: Run it Hard !
磨合引擎最好的方式為用力操它
Why ??
Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber.
活塞環本身的彈性張力僅是為了刮油所需,以避免機油進入燃燒室
If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall ...
How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of
PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch) of combustion pressure ??
Of course it can't.
而其中的活塞環對汽缸壁所施加的張力頂多也只有5~10磅,又如何密封數千磅的燃燒壓力
From the actual gas pressure itself !! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine's first miles of operation (open that throttle !!!), then the entire ring will wear into
the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible.
這個氣體壓力的本身,會通過活塞環頂,迫使活塞環朝汽缸壁撐開,卻因為新的活塞環本身並不是完美的
邊緣有許多的小孔需要和汽缸壁的紋路做相當的接合才能達到完全的氣密,假如引擎在第一英里的運作內
(例如油門全開)氣體壓力夠強那麼活塞環將會和汽缸壁達到密合
The Problem With "Easy Break In" ...
這個在台灣的說法我稱做一般訓車
The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.
是指沒有盡快讓活塞環和汽缸壁密合的話,活塞環的邊邊就會慢慢被汽缸壁磨平,就只有重換新活塞環一途
There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!
而這麼機會非常短(所謂的磨合黃金時期吧!)是在新引擎的頭二十英里
If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.
如果沒有強迫活塞環和缸壁有足夠的密合,使活塞環邊綠的粗糙度固定穩定下來,那麼只有重新研磨汽缸
或是更新新的活塞環一途,重新訓車
Fortunately, most new sportbike owners can't resist the urge to "open it up" once or twice,
which is why more engines don't have this problem !!
幸運的是,大多的車主會無法抗拒的偶爾小飆個一二趟,這就是為何多數引擎沒有這樣的問題
An additional factor that you may not have realized, is that the person at the dealership who set up your bike probably blasted your brand new bike pretty hard on the "test run". So, without realizing it, that adrenaline crazed set - up mechanic actually did you a huge favor !!
另一方面你可能不知道的原因是,經銷商的技師(在台灣我當做是原廠的技師),在設定你的機車和試運轉時
已幫你用力的操了一次引擎.
以上是外國人的說法
香港鐵騎網也有提到這個部份
http://www.ibike.com.hk/03_knowledges/03/run_in/00.htm?
其實我在看時也覺得蠻合理的
所以我自己是結合大家的意見而有了自己的暴訓法
板友的意見不外乎有
1. 訓車有的時候是訓人
2. 訓車又不是只訓缸,一些車上機件也需要磨合
老實說,大家也說的很有道理
所以只要新車到手
我都會先順順騎(為磨合機車上的全車機件)
再順便熟悉新車的駕駛感,
只要有路有空間又夠安全
我就會順順的加油門然後拉個尾速
頭二三百KM先換機油把鐵屑流出看狀況
之後就正常騎,定時換油
我前一台RV150 2007年DX我是這麼訓車的
以我90KG的體重
每天錶速都八九十到一百多在跑
從一二萬開始每二千KM換一次機油
全原廠騎到快五萬KM
錶速還是可以騎到120幾到130
而且機油八百進八百出
這是個人的心得,參考參考
[ 本文章最後由 inmost 於 2011-6-21 13:01 編輯 ] |
，所以應該是材質的問題or熱處裡加工的硬度沒達標準，耐磨度才會這麼差喔
。
，我就是板大建議換回原廠凸輪的那位
圖片中進氣凸輪整個磨平就是我的，不過我的汽門搖臂沒什麼磨損，我有拿台達這隻高凸去做硬度測試，只有3.5而巳，原廠的凸輪軸硬度有5.5
